The Big Jones Cookbook
Recipes for Savoring the Heritage of Regional Southern Cooking
9780226829371
9780226205724
9780226205861
The Big Jones Cookbook
Recipes for Savoring the Heritage of Regional Southern Cooking
An original look at southern heirloom cooking with a focus on history, heritage, and variety.
You expect to hear about restaurant kitchens in Charleston, New Orleans, or Memphis perfecting plates of the finest southern cuisine—from hearty red beans and rice to stewed okra to crispy fried chicken. But who would guess that one of the most innovative chefs cooking heirloom regional southern food is based not in the heart of biscuit country, but in the grain-fed Midwest—in Chicago, no less? Since 2008, chef Paul Fehribach has been introducing Chicagoans to the delectable pleasures of Lowcountry cuisine, while his restaurant Big Jones has become a home away from home for the city’s southern diaspora. From its inception, Big Jones has focused on cooking with local and sustainably grown heirloom crops and heritage livestock, reinvigorating southern cooking through meticulous technique and the unique perspective of its Midwest location. And with The Big Jones Cookbook, Fehribach brings the rich stories and traditions of regional southern food to kitchens everywhere.
Fehribach interweaves personal experience, historical knowledge, and culinary creativity, all while offering tried-and-true takes on everything from Reezy-Peezy to Gumbo Ya-Ya, Chicken and Dumplings, and Crispy Catfish. Fehribach’s dishes reflect his careful attention to historical and culinary detail, and many recipes are accompanied by insights about their origins. In addition to the regional chapters, the cookbook features sections on breads, from sweet potato biscuits to spoonbread; pantry put-ups like bread and butter pickles and chow-chow; cocktails, such as the sazerac; desserts, including Sea Island benne cake; as well as an extensive section on snout-to-tail cooking, including homemade Andouille and pickled pigs’ feet.
Proof that you need not possess a thick southern drawl to appreciate the comfort of creamy grits and the skill of perfectly fried green tomatoes, The Big Jones Cookbook will be something to savor regardless of where you set your table.
You expect to hear about restaurant kitchens in Charleston, New Orleans, or Memphis perfecting plates of the finest southern cuisine—from hearty red beans and rice to stewed okra to crispy fried chicken. But who would guess that one of the most innovative chefs cooking heirloom regional southern food is based not in the heart of biscuit country, but in the grain-fed Midwest—in Chicago, no less? Since 2008, chef Paul Fehribach has been introducing Chicagoans to the delectable pleasures of Lowcountry cuisine, while his restaurant Big Jones has become a home away from home for the city’s southern diaspora. From its inception, Big Jones has focused on cooking with local and sustainably grown heirloom crops and heritage livestock, reinvigorating southern cooking through meticulous technique and the unique perspective of its Midwest location. And with The Big Jones Cookbook, Fehribach brings the rich stories and traditions of regional southern food to kitchens everywhere.
Fehribach interweaves personal experience, historical knowledge, and culinary creativity, all while offering tried-and-true takes on everything from Reezy-Peezy to Gumbo Ya-Ya, Chicken and Dumplings, and Crispy Catfish. Fehribach’s dishes reflect his careful attention to historical and culinary detail, and many recipes are accompanied by insights about their origins. In addition to the regional chapters, the cookbook features sections on breads, from sweet potato biscuits to spoonbread; pantry put-ups like bread and butter pickles and chow-chow; cocktails, such as the sazerac; desserts, including Sea Island benne cake; as well as an extensive section on snout-to-tail cooking, including homemade Andouille and pickled pigs’ feet.
Proof that you need not possess a thick southern drawl to appreciate the comfort of creamy grits and the skill of perfectly fried green tomatoes, The Big Jones Cookbook will be something to savor regardless of where you set your table.
Reviews
Table of Contents
Preface
Acknowledgments
Breads
Index
Acknowledgments
Breads
Skillet Cornbread
Sally Lunn
Popovers
Farmstead Biscuits
Sweet Potato Biscuits
Cheddar Biscuits
Beignets
Buckwheat Banana Pancakes
Antebellum Rice Waffles
Salt-Rising Bread
Abruzzi Rye Bread
Awendaw Spoonbread
Inspirations from the LowcountrySally Lunn
Popovers
Farmstead Biscuits
Sweet Potato Biscuits
Cheddar Biscuits
Beignets
Buckwheat Banana Pancakes
Antebellum Rice Waffles
Salt-Rising Bread
Abruzzi Rye Bread
Awendaw Spoonbread
Benne Oyster Stew
She-Crab Soup
Carolina Gold Rice and Boiled Peanut Perlau
Pickled Shrimp
Creamy Grits
Shrimp and Grits
Reezy-Peezy, ca. 1780
Mustard Barbeque Sauce
Sea Island Benne Cake
Roux Icing
Sea Island Benne Ice Cream
Coconut Cream Cake
Cream Cheese Icing
South LouisianaShe-Crab Soup
Carolina Gold Rice and Boiled Peanut Perlau
Pickled Shrimp
Creamy Grits
Shrimp and Grits
Reezy-Peezy, ca. 1780
Mustard Barbeque Sauce
Sea Island Benne Cake
Roux Icing
Sea Island Benne Ice Cream
Coconut Cream Cake
Cream Cheese Icing
Crawfish Boudin Fritters
Gumbo Ya-Ya
Cajun Seasoning
Creole Boiled Rice
Gumbo z’Herbes
Crawfish Étouffée
Barbecued Shrimp
Creole Seafood Seasoning
Red Beans
Voodoo Greens
Brown Butter Roasted Palm Hearts
Debris Gravy
Rémoulade
Eggs New Orleans
Poached Eggs
Crab Cakes
Béarnaise
Potatoes O’Brien
Bread Pudding
Cherry Bavarian Cream
The Appalachian Highlands
Gumbo Ya-Ya
Cajun Seasoning
Creole Boiled Rice
Gumbo z’Herbes
Crawfish Étouffée
Barbecued Shrimp
Creole Seafood Seasoning
Red Beans
Voodoo Greens
Brown Butter Roasted Palm Hearts
Debris Gravy
Rémoulade
Eggs New Orleans
Poached Eggs
Crab Cakes
Béarnaise
Potatoes O’Brien
Bread Pudding
Cherry Bavarian Cream
The Appalachian Highlands
Sautéed Ramp Greens with Benne
Grilled Asparagus with Cottage Cheese and Lemon
Pimiento Cheese
Hominy
Succotash
Old Virginia Fried Steak, ca. 1824
Chicken-Fried Morel Mushrooms
Sawmill Gravy
Turnip Greens with Potato Dumplings
Pan-Fried Ham with Redeye Gravy
Buttermilk Pie
Jelly Roll Cake
Salty Sorghum Taffy
KentuckianaGrilled Asparagus with Cottage Cheese and Lemon
Pimiento Cheese
Hominy
Succotash
Old Virginia Fried Steak, ca. 1824
Chicken-Fried Morel Mushrooms
Sawmill Gravy
Turnip Greens with Potato Dumplings
Pan-Fried Ham with Redeye Gravy
Buttermilk Pie
Jelly Roll Cake
Salty Sorghum Taffy
Chicken and Dumplings, ca. 1920
Sweet Tea–Brined Pork Loin
Fried Chicken
Duet of Duck with Bourbon Giblet Jus
Potted Duck
Rutabaga Confit
Creamed Brewster Oat Groats with Parsnips and Hen of the Woods
Braised Sausages with Sauerkraut and Parsnips
Mashed Potatoes
Charred Brussels Sprouts with Shallots and Pecans
Black Walnut Sorghum Pie
Short Crust for Sweet Pies
Chocolate Pecan Tart
Pawpaw Panna Cotta
Persimmon Pudding Pie
Salty Sorghum Ice Cream
The Delta and Deep South
Sweet Tea–Brined Pork Loin
Fried Chicken
Duet of Duck with Bourbon Giblet Jus
Potted Duck
Rutabaga Confit
Creamed Brewster Oat Groats with Parsnips and Hen of the Woods
Braised Sausages with Sauerkraut and Parsnips
Mashed Potatoes
Charred Brussels Sprouts with Shallots and Pecans
Black Walnut Sorghum Pie
Short Crust for Sweet Pies
Chocolate Pecan Tart
Pawpaw Panna Cotta
Persimmon Pudding Pie
Salty Sorghum Ice Cream
The Delta and Deep South
Cheese Straws
Boiled Peanuts
Fried Green Tomatoes
Goat Cheese and Potato Croquettes
Pecan Chicken Salad
Crispy Catfish à la Big Jones
Crowder Peas
Sweet Potato Hash
Mississippi Mud Pie
Red Velvet Cake
The Bar
Boiled Peanuts
Fried Green Tomatoes
Goat Cheese and Potato Croquettes
Pecan Chicken Salad
Crispy Catfish à la Big Jones
Crowder Peas
Sweet Potato Hash
Mississippi Mud Pie
Red Velvet Cake
The Bar
Sazerac Cocktail, ca. 1940
Chatham Artillery Punch
Oleo-Saccharum
The Consummation
Sweet Leaf
Blue Yodel No. 1
Bloody Mary Jones
Death in the Afternoon
Cherry Bud Bitters
Rhubarb Julep
Brandy Fix
The Pantry
Chatham Artillery Punch
Oleo-Saccharum
The Consummation
Sweet Leaf
Blue Yodel No. 1
Bloody Mary Jones
Death in the Afternoon
Cherry Bud Bitters
Rhubarb Julep
Brandy Fix
The Pantry
Clarified Butter
Basic Mayonnaise
Green Goddess
Standard Canning Instructions for Shelf-Stable Pickles and Preserves
Chow-Chow
Bread and Butter Pickles
Piccalilli
Five-Pepper Jelly
Okra Pickles
Raspberry Preserves
Elderberry Jelly
Apple Butter
Pickled Peaches
Preserved Quince
Kumquat Marmalade
Savory Benne Crackers
Worcestershire Sauce
Basic Vinaigrette
Bourbon and Brown Sugar Mustard
The Whole HogBasic Mayonnaise
Green Goddess
Standard Canning Instructions for Shelf-Stable Pickles and Preserves
Chow-Chow
Bread and Butter Pickles
Piccalilli
Five-Pepper Jelly
Okra Pickles
Raspberry Preserves
Elderberry Jelly
Apple Butter
Pickled Peaches
Preserved Quince
Kumquat Marmalade
Savory Benne Crackers
Worcestershire Sauce
Basic Vinaigrette
Bourbon and Brown Sugar Mustard
Andouille
Boudin
Boudin Rouge
Chaurice
Head Cheese
Tasso
Bacon
Ham
Pickled Pig’s Feet
Lard
Crackling, aka Gratons
Notes on SourcesBoudin
Boudin Rouge
Chaurice
Head Cheese
Tasso
Bacon
Ham
Pickled Pig’s Feet
Lard
Crackling, aka Gratons
Index
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