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Clothing Goes to War

Creativity Inspired by Scarcity in World War II

The story of civilian clothing use during World War II. 

Manufacturing for civilians across the globe nearly stopped at the outset of World War II, as outfitting troops took precedence over nonmilitary production. Raw materials were prioritized for the armed forces and the majority of nonmilitary factories were shifted to war work, resulting in shortages and rationing of consumer products. Civilians, especially women, responded to the resulting scarcity of goods by using ingenuity and creativity to “make do.” In Clothing Goes to War, Nan Turner offers a critical look at some of the resourceful results of this period as necessity paved the way for fashionable invention.

312 pages | 16 color plates, 108 halftones | 6.69 x 9.61 | © 2021

Design

History: Military History


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Reviews

"Clothing Goes to War is a sound contribution to the ever-expanding body of literature on the interactions between material culture, social history and war. Turner explores the roles of different textiles in war — jute, cotton, wool, nylon and even rubber (never underestimate the prevalence of girdles in wartime) — and the ways in which female ingenuity battled scarcity. Her narrative is a successful interweaving of personal stories and historical analysis, sharing experiences of women across different social classes and nationalities in a way that is both moving and insightful...

The book’s broad overview of national policies on thrift in both Allied and Axis countries, balanced with individual interviews by the author, makes clear that traditional female thrift and women’s unpaid labour were both crucial factors in government economic policies... What sets this book apart from many histories of wartime apparel are the connections made across different classes, races and nations, and the comparison it draws between thrift practices then and now. Turner draws our attention to parallels between wartime crafting necessities and recent pandemic responses. Times of crisis focus consumers on issues of hoarding, scarcity and adaptability — very much features relevant to the Second World War as well as current global issues of conflict and deprivation...

Clothing Goes to War is a call for greater awareness of textile sustainability practices, and a fine tribute to so-called ordinary people who persevered through the hardships of the 1930s and 1940s."
 

Lucy Adlington, Textile History

Table of Contents

Introduction

1 Rationale for Rationing

2 Gender during WWII

3 Home Front Handicrafts

4 Wartime Weddings

5 Costumes go to War

6 Black Market

7 DIY returns

Epilogue

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